Home Gardening



The home garden is an integrated system which comprises different things in its small area: the family house, a living/playing area, a kitchen garden, a mixed garden, a fish pond, stores, an animal house and, of course, people. It produces a variety of foods and agricultural products, including staple crops, vegetables, fruits, medicinal plants, livestock and fish both for home consumption or use and for income.


There are a couple of easy steps a beginner gardener can follow in designing a garden:

Know your purpose:



 The first thing starting out gardener ask himself is what do I want garden for? A garden can be started for lot of reasons. Simply serve as a calming nook or to serve something more functional such as a source for food or spices or to serve something more functional such as a source for food or spices. So think and decide which types of garden do you what.


  • ·         Flower garden
  • ·         Vegetable garden
  • ·         Herbal garden

Knowing the kind of garden you want will determine the kind of plant. 


Consider the climate:

Plants are heavily dependent on climate. Some plants are only grown and thrive on specific type of climates. So whether you live in a place with tropical whether one with four seasons or a place that is consistently hot or cold know the best kind of plants grow in your climate.

Consider the time of the year:

Plants are also follow the calendar and seasons. So depending on the time of the year you decide to start your garden and the type of climate you have as well, you must choose the appropriate seeding and seeds to plant. Lay’s slipper such as daffodils should be planted during the winter. Make sure you consult a seeding calendar for your region so you don’t go wrong. Now we are going to describe you all step by step process of gardening.

Pick a place:


Almost all vegetables and most flowers need about six hours of full sun each day. Spend a day in your chosen spot and watch how the sun moves across the space. It might receive more sun than you think. But don't despair if your lot is largely sunless; many plants tolerate shade. Check plant tags or ask the staff at your local garden center to find out how much sun a plant requires. Put the garden where you can't ignore its pleas for attention -- outside the back door, near the mailbox, by the window you stare out when you dry your hair. Place it close enough to a water spigot that you won't have to drag the hose to the hinterlands.


Clear the ground:


Creating a new garden bed can time consuming, but with good planning and some muscle, it'll be worthwhile. Decide where the garden bed will go and draw a plan on paper. Then, you'll need to clean up the area so the soil will be easier to work. You can clear your garden area any time during the year, but the season before planting works best. You can clear the area the day before you plant, but you may have more weed problems later.
If you already have an established garden, clean up any debris in fall or winter, depending on where you live, and till the ground before planting.

Improve the soil:



With the ground preparation complete, it’s time to improve the soil. Improving the soil means making its texture and structure easier for roots to grow in and providing all the food a plant needs.

It’s a two-stage pro

·         Dig in lots of well-rotted, bulky organic matter, such as horse manure or garden compost, about half-a-wheelbarrow load per square metre


·         Apply fertiliser - a handful of a general organic fertiliser, such as blood, bone and fishmeal, per square metrecess:

If you are starting afresh, do the digging and mucking preferably the winter before, especially if you are on soils that are clay dominant, but don’t worry if you’ve missed it. And fork in the fertiliser just before planting. If the plants are already there, ‘mulch’ the beds with a 10cm (4in) layer of bulky organic and a scattering of fertiliser before the growing season begins – early spring.


Organic matter:

Organic matter improves soil structure, as does the digging, and as it breaks down it releases small amounts of nutrients. That’s what organic gardeners mean by ‘feed the soil not the plant’. You can buy a range of soil improvers in bags at the garden centre, but this is expensive. Much better is asteaming pile’ delivered, and making your own with a compost heap.


Pick your plants & put them in the ground:



First, make sure your plants are hardened off (see the Vegetable FAQ on Hardening Off Transplants). Also make sure they are well watered before you transplant so they're completely hydrated before the move. This will reduce shock. Literally submerge the pots in a bucket of water, wait until there are no longer air bubbles coming up, and then sit them in another bowl for at least 20 minutes. Your plants will thank you. Transplant in the evening, on a cloudy day, in the shade, or before a rain. Avoid transplanting in full sun or windy days which creates optimum stress on plants.

When transplanting, be gentle with the root system. Try to maintain the integrity of the soil structure to prevent shock, better safe than sorry (you experienced gardeners know the tolerance - this is for newbies). If you've got a four pack, don't take them all out and leave the roots sitting out in the sun or wind. Transplant one at a time. If you're planting into pots, keep the pots in the shade for a couple of days so your plants can adjust to their new environment.

Water immediately after transplanting. This will help the roots settle into their new home.

Mulch:


Another way to feed the soil is using mulch, which protects soil from erosion and reduces weeds. Mulch materials such as straw or green manure cuttings should be spread about 4 to 6 cm thick around plants.





SAFE USE OF CHEMICAL PESTICIDES:


Occasionally, the use of chemical pesticides is the best method of pest and disease control. Many different pesticides are widely available. They cost money, however, and while they are powerful, they may be ineffective and dangerous if used incorrectly. Using them in a home garden is not the same as using them in a field situation such as a rice paddy. Always read the label on pesticide packages and respect the following rules for safe and effective use of pesticides:



  1. ·         Many pesticides are only effective against specific pests or diseases. Identify the pest or disease causing the problem before you select a pesticide.
  2. ·         When handling pesticides, especially when mixing or spraying, do not let the chemical touch your body and, if it does, wash it off immediately. Wear gloves or plastic bags over hands, wear a breathing mask or a cloth to filter the air you breathe as well as a hat and a shirt or jacket.
  3. ·         Follow the instructions on the label to mix the chemical to the right concentration. Do not add more than the rate specified because this may reduce its effectiveness. Repeat applications only according to the frequency written on the label.
  4. ·         Follow the instructions on the label to mix the chemical to the right concentration. Do not add more than the rate specified because this may reduce its effectiveness. Repeat applications only according to the frequency written on the label.
  5. ·         After any pesticide is applied to a crop, a certain period must pass before the crop can be harvested and eaten or sent to market. This is the keep-out period. For some pesticides it is only one day, but for others it may be two weeks. Poisoning may occur if the crop is eaten inside the keep-out period. If children or animals cannot be kept away from the crop, do not use the pesticides.
  6. ·         Keep pesticides safely locked away from children to avoid poisoning. If there is pesticide left over in the tank after spraying, pour it out but make sure you do this away from streams and ponds so that it does not poison the water and fish.
  7. ·         Do not use a pesticide if you are not sure of the procedures.














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